The physical places I remember are still there, but the Pilgrims who made them special have all gone missing. Sadly for me, there were few human replacements to be found on this latest Pilgrimage. So...I sighed a few times and changed my game plan.
Here’s what I did: I lowered my social expectations. I immersed myself in just being in Europe. I reveled in the daily joys and Simple Life of walking the Camino.
I found solace in washing my cloths in a sink and hoping they would dry before my next day’s mosey. I got into the morning routine of packing my thirteen articles of cloths into my dusty sweat-stained backpack. I enjoyed the brisk Speedy Gonzales walking pace I maintained for 3-6 hours a day. I relished the strong earthy coffee I drank beforehand to achieve this. I took Siestas. I became giddy when my food order was what I actually wanted. If not, I ate it just the same without complaint. I chalked up miscommunications with the Locals as another episode of “Lost in Translation.” I avoided being an “Ugly American.”
I found happiness in eating tapas in cozy cafes. I spent hours people watching in warm sunny Plazas. I never grew tired of strolling through the narrow twisty streets of Spanish cities, towns and villages. I marveled at the Spanish people’s high regard for the concept of Family.
I visited the Local’s bars where men pitched playing cards with a manly “Twack!” The elderly women card games were docile in comparison. They seemed more content to talk about their families.
I loved sleeping in hotels that were older than the US. In León, an over 400 year old accommodation had its original staircase. It’s shiny wooden steps were beveled from being trod upon by four centuries worth of ascents and descents. I laughed every time I used them.
To sum it up, it’s way cool to be in Europe.
As far as the Camino de Santiago goes, I’ll say this. The more the merrier might not apply to Pilgrimages. There’s less Random Acts of Kindness. The innocence and intimacy seem to be a thing of the past with the added numbers. At times, I got lost in the sauce of the mass of Pilgrim Humanity. Then again, I might be more of an introvert then ever before. Who knows?
There were 42,188 “Graduates” in the month of September alone. 2017 has already set a new yearly record with a few months left and thousands still en route.
For me, It’s just wasn’t the same.
Do I have any regrets? None whatsoever. (Except not encountering a potential First Lady)
I met a few nice people. Got plenty of exercise. Ate lots of three course meals complete with a bottle of Vino Tinto all for $12! I slept in clean rooms with indoor plumbing for less than what a fill-up of gas for Barley the Van would cost. (Barley doesn’t sport indoor plumbing either). I relaxed a lot. I gained back the weight I lost (and then some) from my Alps endeavor. If I weren’t Camino-ing here, I’d be walking somewhere else in Europe. It’s all good.
Next European stop for this journey will be Portugal. Those gregarious Aussie women told me to sample the Portuguese Tarts when I’m there. Sounds like fun to me! Oh Wait! Maybe they were talking about the pastries.
I’m a short day’s walk to the End of the World.
See you next on the Other Side,
Cheers!
Jeff