A Wandering, Wondering Jew

Monday, October 10, 2016

I got parboiled on Crete...

while hiking a teenie weenie bit of the ultra-long distance E4 trail. For those unfamiliar with the E4 (like me before I arrived on Crete), it's a 10,000 plus kilometers jaunt from Portugal through lots of other European countries culminating on the Greek Island of Cypress. In other words, it's longer than America's Pacific Crest Trail and Continental Divide Trail combined!

I think you would need more than one pair of trail runners to complete it.

I asked a few locals their opinion on attempting to hike 20 kilometers (12.5 miles) in one day. They then looked at me in a funnier way than usual.

One helpful man said, "That's a two day hike! It's hot and there's little drinking water along the way. The trail is rocky too."

This man was correct on all counts.

Here's the trail description from Wikipedia:

"A walk can take longer than anticipated because of poor way marking, or because paths are blocked, or dangerously eroded. Walkers should therefore be prepared for long diversions, and never presume that you will reach the intended destination, including the final one, on time, or on a specific day."

In an olive nutshell, the trail stinks on ice! Although today, a chunk of frozen water would have been received as a gift from the Greek Gods.

Plus! There were heaps of naked elderly German couples along the E4's beaches and coves. I strode past one group in the morning. They were still sunning their sexual organs four hours later! They hadn't moved or even twitched. How much vitamin D does a body need?

It was so hot, I decided to take a dip in the Libyan Sea. I went in naked as the morning Clara Sambur gave birth to me. I found a pocket of isolation to partake in my birthday suit ablution. The water sizzled as I submerged myself. Let me tell you, I was HOT!

Look at the photos: the scenery is reminiscent of a seaside Death Valley National Park. Pretty stark.

I'm working on chugging the second gallon of water for the day. It's Happy Hour so I'm mixing the H2O with a dark lager.

Hydration is the key to health and survival.

From Hora Station,

Cheers,

Jeff

From the last photo: check out the trail's designers.

Sunday, October 9, 2016

Samaria National Park Incorporated ...

It's all about the Euros.

When I was Googling places to hike on Crete, this Greek National Park rose to the top of the search engine. Many websites announced it to be a "must see" destination. How could I resist?

So... I pointed my battered and gutless rental car to this splotch of green displayed on my Crete map. Little did I know a multitude of tour buses occupied by Wannabe Wilderness Warriors would be converging there at the same time.

I consider myself to be a connoisseur of quiet pretty places. I spent last summer gliding along on many earthy trails. I saw beauty all around me. I felt so at ease, I was even sleeping peacefully. All was good in my world.

http://jeffsambur.blogspot.gr/2016/09/an-almost-perfect.html

I tried my luck in the Hellenic Republican. On this hike, the Greek Gods weren't handing me their blessings. This might be the reason.

The country of Greece is undergoing a financial crisis. Unemployment is running at an unfathomable 23.2%. This is the highest jobless rate in the Euro Zone. Tourism is a major industry. It creates service jobs and brings in a year round influx of cash. Making Euros off of hikers is one way to stimulate the economy.

Hence, lots of determined Germans, gossipy French, fashionably dressed Italians, families with dour looking children in tow, two beer guzzling Dudes, and one Wandering Wondering Jew were all forced to occupy the same dicey 16 kilometers (10 mile) descent at the same time. I often said "Excuse Me" as I squeezed by in search of a stretch of solitude. I've seen New York City streets that were less peopled.

For my fellow trail companions, their amble to the Libyan Sea and village of Agia Roumeli would end with a ferry ride followed by a bus back to their starting point in the city of Chania. A very long drawn out and pricey day.

I decided to spend the night in Agia Roumeli and turn around and hike out the following morning. Sort of a Greek version of a typical Grand Canyon experience. Let me tell you, this seaside village is no Phantom Ranch.

Right away, I noticed a vibe I hadn't experienced before in Greece. Shopkeepers, restaurant owners and even hotel clerks looked upon the worn out trekkers like hyenas circling a maimed gazelle. We were all fresh meat and they were coming in for the economic kill. It turned me off for my stay there. I was fleeced a few times in less than 16 hours. I.E: I was charged €17 for two eggs swimming in an ocean of olive oil, three pieces of stale toast and a cup of tepid coffee. At least the proprietor said "thank you" when I called him on it. (Not all the merchants were like the above description, I just ran into the few bad gyros!)

I then shouldered my backpack and headed uphill feeling used and violated. After paying €5 to a Park "Warden." I entered the gorge. It was quiet enough to hear my own crunching footsteps. I was enjoying the moment knowing eventually the downhill hiking hordes would appear. I passed rest areas devoid of people. Their empty picnic tables and cigarette ash trays awaited the coming crowds.

I made it 8 kilometers up before I met my first seagoing walkers. I began counting. The result surprised me. In a 8 kilometer (5 mile) survey, I saw 650 humans. (Margin of error plus or minus 3%). Believe it or not, this is the low season for visitation. On a busy day, there's over 1,500 adventurers cramming the trail.

Sadly, the Samaria National Parks administration has lost sight of their own management goals. From the Park's brochure:

"Visitors have the occasion for a deep, true and meaningful contact with the natural landscape, plants and animals, opening themselves up to nature."

More like opening up your wallet/purse!

I understand the Park's plight. Theirs too many jobs and much needed cash on the line. I also know that this incident is the exception instead of the rule. Most of my hikes have been uncrowded and relaxed.

For the most part, Greeks are helpful, friendly, honest and generous. They enjoy smiling as much as I do too.

This by and large has been a really great break from my usual journeys. I've already marked Greece as a return destination one day.

Eviva!

From a seaside village with a name that looks like Hora Station to my Gringo eyes,

Jeff

About the photo with the ladder on the rock. I suppose you climb there in case of a flash flood.