I’m a mostly Coloradoan/New Yorker. I know BIGLY things about what a mountain should look like. To my trained eye, Steens was a series of ridge lines, some attached and horseshoe shaped. Others sitting alone hermit-like (similar to me).
On the west side, there were scooped out gorges with rivers spouting out of them. The waterways had Santa’s reindeer names: Donner and Blitzen. A few others gave credit to the locals before the White Guys appeared: Big and Little Indian. All that gurgling liquid ends up in America’s Great Basin going nowhere. To the east, Steens free falls over 4,000’ into the Alvord Desert.
Its ’s a place designed by a landscape architect high on LSD. Steens is strangely beautiful.
After a 300 mile drive, I pulled into the hoity toity sounding Steens Mountain Resort. (Three miles past Frenchglen, population 12 or so). It was a well kept and orderly campground. My only complaint was the father and son neighbors who played techno music during daylight hours. (I truly believe techno was invented for people who fear quiet). Blissfully for me, they left in the morning. I decided to stay a second night.
I took a stroll up nearby Donner and Blitzen River. I left Benedict Arnold the Van (formerly known as Barley the Van) behind at the resort. We needed some downtime. The route wasn’t particularly awe inspiring but it was empty of people. In ten miles of hiking I came across one binocular bearing birder and a retired couple walking their puppy. It was perfect.
The next morning, I drove uphill. The Steens Mountain Loop Road is deceiving. It’s a mellow grade on a washboard gravelly road to the summit. In twenty miles of so, I ascended over 5,000 feet. The dusty, smoky views were outstanding. All the above mentioned gorges were seen from the topside looking down. There was Wild Horse Lake too. After playing tourist, I plunged down along a ridge line towards South Steens campground. While I was setting up my humble home for the night, my large nose caught a whiff of Benedict’s overheated brakes. Deceivingly steep.
There was an ample supply of sunshine left so I headed off to Big Indian gorge. Once again, the scenery was worth a look-see. Once again I saw less than a handful of humanoids in double digit miles. It was a fine day, topped off in a clean, comfortable and easy of the wallet campsite. The few neighbors I had understood the Three Sacred S’ of car camping. Space, Solitude and Silence. God Bless Them.
I was up and at ‘em at first light. I wanted to get a hike in before departing Steens Mountain. I decided to go uphill for an overlook of Little Blitzen Gorge. I crossed the river and hit the Fred Riddle trail. Propelled by two pots of coffee and a morning massaging sun, I made good time. I passed a hard working trail crew consisting of young adults wearing hard hats. They were upgrading this slightly used trail to accommodate the “I’d rather ride a horse, than wear trail runners” locals.
Which brings up a point. Steens Mountain is a “Cooperative Management and Protection Area.” The Bureau of Land Management describes it this way, “ It’s approximately 500,000 acres of private and public land offering diverse scenic and recreation experiences. The CMPA encompasses deep glacier carved gorges, stunning scenery, wilderness, wild and scenic rivers and a way of life for all who live there.”
Good things happen for all when Public and Private interests decide to play nice.
Steens Mountain is adjacent to Malhuer National Wildlife Refuge. The Wildlife Preserve is infamous as a place where a few misguided miscreants decided to become aggressive hemorrhoids to the Feds.
The High Country Times explains a “Don’t Thread on Me” attitude escalating to gunplay with tragic results. Please take the time to read.
Now I’ll state my own opinion.
The Hammonds and the Bundy’s and their ilk, deserve to be allowed in one piece of Federal Property-a Penitentiary.
BTW. The Commander in Chaos and Anarchy pardoned the Hammonds who were serving time for arson. I suppose like the Nazi Wannabes in Charlottesville, VA, they too are “Fine People.”
Go see the Steens and thank those cooperating local ranchers who recognized a beautiful place in the Big Picture of things.
From Yosemite National Park and all is peaceful,
Jeff
No comments:
Post a Comment