A Different Sort...

of Camino. 

The Roto Vincentina consists of over 400 plus kilometers of marked routes in the Southwest of Portugal. 

It’s the brainchild of local merchants, hoteliers, restaurant owners and municipalities who woke up one Autumn Day to exclaim, “Hey! Where the heck did all those Euro spending tourists go now that summer’s over! Eureka! (Or the Portuguese equivalent of that). Let’s establish a trail system to get us through the lean low season.” 

Thus, the Roto Vicentina was born a few years ago. The locals traded the Bikini/Speedo crowd for the bearers of backpacks. So far, there’s not an awful lot of hikers. A smidgeon here, a dollop there and a few guided groups. From my observations the walkers are mostly European. 

It’s no Camino de Santiago. 

That’s a good thing. I haven’t seen a shell flopping on the outside of a backpack. I haven’t overheard any New Agey conversations where the concepts are as foreign to me as Quantum Mechanics. I haven’t had to say, “Pardon!” or “Excuse me!” as I hustle past. There are no Yellow Arrows to chase. It’s mostly scenic, sandy and quiet. It’s  a pleasant break for me. 

The villages and towns are virtually empty. Many restaurants and hotels are shuttered. The owners apparently are sitting it out until summer and the bathing beauties return. It’s off-season and I’m happy to be here. 

The Roto V is divided among three choices of hiking. There’s the “Fishermen’s Way” which consists of mostly seaside slogs through or over sand dunes. There’s lots cliffhanger walking too. It’s not easy or fast getting from point A to B. 

There’s the “Historical Route” which is more inland. It connects the small Portuguese population centers. The trails are Terra Firma. It’s easier walking. A Wanderer gets to breeze past cattle, cork trees, eucalyptus forests and hay fields. It’s quiet too (except for the occasional roadside walking). 

There’s also “Circular Routes” for the day hikers. 

All the routes are well marked complete with signs, painted arrows and 4X6 posts to follow. The Roto Vicentina Folks did a great job of putting this together. 

Before you book a ticket to Portugal, let me say this. It’s not Wilderness hiking. One is always close to a dirt track, a tarmac road or a cultivated field. Hey! It’s Europe! It’s been settled for a long time and there’s plenty of people here. It’s the European idea of two National Parks. 

I’ll take it.

Cheers from Almograve, Portugal 

Jeff

The last photo is the most ecstatically pleasing WC in Europe.

There’s City People...

And then there’s me. I’m not a City person. Unless the City has a baseball team and accompanying stadium. Then I’m cool with the temporary inconvenience before, during and after the game. 

Lisbon, Portugal doesn’t have a baseball team. What it does have is a hard up, shambling appearance. On my way into the city proper, I noticed abandoned buildings where bricks had replaced the glass windows. (A possible deterrent for squatters?). Graffiti was more prevalent than trees. 

In the short time I was there, I began to recognize the beggars. Many were physically deformed. Later on I noticed them sleeping on the sidewalk near my cruddy overpriced guesthouse. 

Restaurant owners added Euros to the bill with no explanation given. When I began to go “New Yorker” on them, they rescinded. 

To me, Lisbon had a seedy vibe.

For European standards the city has that fresh paint smell. It’s somewhat new. The reason? The Great Earthquake of 1755 leveled 85% of the structures. An estimated 10,000 to 100,000 locals lost their lives in building collapses, fires and tsunamis. 

Lisbon rebuilt but the end product seemed to be lacking something.

Now I’m in Porto Covo. It’s a seaside resort/fishing village of 1,000 residents where the buildings are whitewashed. The windows and doors are trimmed in neat indigo. The roofs sport red tiles. It’s a place that’s easy on the eye. From my palatial apartment rental, I can hear seagulls mewling and a soothing surf. 

I love it. (Even though there’s no baseball team here.)

Now in a totally different direction: Have any of you readers been to Ecuador? If so please contact me through the Comments portion of my blog. I’d be interested to hear if a W W J can drive, hike and not get lost there! OR to recommend a tour company who might prove helpful to a solo traveler like myself.

Obrigado!

Jeff 

PS. I like this village so much, I’m not moving for three nights. For me, that’s equivalent to taking up residency here. 

Chasing Memories and...

 Yellow Arrows through Spain is how I’d sum up my Camino de Santiago Third Edition. 

The physical places I remember are still there, but the Pilgrims who made them special  have all gone missing. Sadly for me, there were few human replacements to be found on this latest Pilgrimage. So...I sighed a few times and changed my game plan.

http://jeffsambur.blogspot.com.es/2017/10/que-sera-sera-whatever-will-be-will-be.html

Here’s what I did: I lowered my social expectations. I immersed myself in just being in Europe. I reveled in the daily joys and Simple Life of walking the Camino. 

I found solace in washing my cloths in a sink and hoping they would dry before my next day’s mosey. I got into the morning routine of packing my thirteen articles of cloths into my dusty sweat-stained backpack. I enjoyed the brisk Speedy Gonzales walking pace I maintained for 3-6 hours a day. I relished the strong earthy coffee I drank beforehand to achieve this. I took Siestas. I became giddy when my food order was what I actually wanted. If not, I ate it just the same without complaint. I chalked up miscommunications with the Locals as another episode of “Lost in Translation.” I avoided being an “Ugly American.”

I found happiness in eating tapas in cozy cafes. I spent hours people watching in warm sunny Plazas. I never grew tired of strolling through the narrow twisty streets of Spanish cities, towns and villages. I marveled at the Spanish people’s high regard for the concept of Family. 

I visited the Local’s bars where men pitched playing cards with a manly “Twack!” The elderly women card games were docile in comparison. They seemed more content to talk about their families. 

I loved sleeping in hotels that were older than the US. In León, an over 400 year old accommodation had its original staircase. It’s shiny wooden steps were beveled from being trod upon by four centuries worth of ascents and descents. I laughed every time I used them. 

To sum it up, it’s way cool to be in Europe.

As far as the Camino de Santiago goes, I’ll say this. The more the merrier might not apply to Pilgrimages. There’s less Random Acts of Kindness. The innocence and intimacy seem to be a thing of the past with the added numbers. At times, I got lost in the sauce of the mass of Pilgrim Humanity. Then again, I might be more of an introvert then ever before. Who knows? 

There were  42,188 “Graduates” in the month of September alone. 2017 has already set a new yearly record with a few months left and thousands still en route. 

For me, It’s just wasn’t the same. 

Do I have any regrets? None whatsoever. (Except not encountering a potential First Lady)

http://jeffsambur.blogspot.com/2016/11/my-2020-presidential-campaign-begins.html

I met a few nice people. Got plenty of exercise. Ate lots of three course meals complete with a bottle of Vino Tinto all for $12! I slept in clean rooms with indoor plumbing for less than what a fill-up of gas for Barley the Van would cost. (Barley doesn’t sport indoor plumbing either). I relaxed a lot. I gained back the weight I lost (and then some) from my Alps endeavor. If I weren’t Camino-ing here, I’d be walking somewhere else in Europe. It’s all good. 

http://jeffsambur.blogspot.com.es/2017/10/im-in-good.html

Next European stop for this journey will be Portugal. Those gregarious Aussie women told me to sample the Portuguese Tarts when I’m there. Sounds like fun to me! Oh Wait! Maybe they were talking about the pastries. 

I’m a short day’s walk to the End of the World.

See you next on the Other Side,

Cheers!

Jeff