I have an aversion to Wilderness Huts...

We don’t have many in the US. The few I’ve seen are in the Eastside Appalachian Mountains. They are sort of respectable. They have bunkbeds set apart. The sleeping units are more than a breath away from your neighbor. I could handle the space. 

While visiting New Zealand in 2015,  I was handed a harsh reality. People in some countries don’t share this Westside American’s idea of personal space. Upon seeing a hut where 24 hikers were coexisting and sleeping in a 12’x20’ space. (There were three levels of sleeping platforms.) I raised the Sambur White Flag. I surrendered and realized this won’t work for me. 

Read about it here:

https://jeffsambur.blogspot.com/2017/01/a-hut-too-far.html

On my recent Overland Track hike, I was saddened to see the sleeping arrangements were still of the Chinese Opium Den variety. (A cramped crash pad.) I slept in my tent four out of five nights. 

https://jeffsambur.blogspot.com/2019/01/when-aussies-speak-about.html

Steve, an Aussie Buddy of mine from the 1980’s knew about my phobia. While plying him for Tasmanian hiking info, he suggested the Three Capes Walk. 

The trail is relatively new. It’s three years young. It took five years to construct the huts and trail. It cost 30,000,000 Australian Dollars to make. The Three Capes Track was created for the brand-new-gear-crowd and people like me. Folks who are willing to pay more for a bit of luxury in the Great Outdoors. (Cost $355 USD/person). 

I booked a spot for one and forgot about it until I arrived in the one hotel town of Port Arthur. There’s not much else there besides the National Historic Site. 

I dawdled around until my 11:30 am ferry ride to the start. Little did I know, one of the Capes views would be from a small boat. For those who are unaware, a cape is “surrounded by water, big water, ocean water” (Quote by the Commander of the Drama and Crisis Creation). It was an hour of swaying, cold salt water spraying and me choking down a heaving. I didn’t sign up for this. 

Once landed, I donned my pack to hit Terra Firma. An hour later, I was at the Surveyor Hut. Glen the Warden came out to see me and showed me to my four bunk room. I tossed my pack on a lower bed and went exploring. 

Unbelievable! There was an outdoor gas grill, two kitchens with pots, pans and utensils, three gas stoves in each kitchen, a library, board and card games, yoga mats, comfy outdoor chairs, a deck with picnic tables, a cellphone and I Pad charging station, toilet paper in the WC, hand soap and 8” thick memory foam mattresses to sleep upon. The huts themselves were made of wood, steel and glass. A definite sturdy construction type. The second hut had a hot water shower. I was wowed at first sight. 

A note about the trail conditions: They were the best I’ve ever seen. I think staff members dust them each morning. If that doesn’t work, they must use a leaf blower with a silencer. 

I grabbed snack food, a book and a comfy deck chair. Group by group my fellow travelers arrived. (The Huts accommodate 48 hikers/day). It didn’t take long for me to realize once again, I was the solo Wandering Wondering Yank Jew among the many family units. (There were five young women, but they interacted more with each other and their cell phones than the other guests.) A few families placed invisible “Do Not Disturb” signs around themselves. It was quickly apparent they wanted quality family time. 

Good thing I brought a book and the library was well stocked.

As Yogi Berra said, “You can observe a lot by just watching.” So I did. This is what I noticed. Most hikers were new at this. They hauled in steaks, salmon, fresh veggies, bottled wine and three complete clothes ensembles. Women wore makeup and stylist silk scarves. Men-folk brought a variety of headwear. I saw real plates, Tupperware and silverware too. Cotton socks with boots were observed as well. Earbuds and Bose headphones were the rage. Texting and phone calls were a constant reminder we weren’t too far from civilization. 

Those 47  Aussies must have thought I was feral. I wore the same cotton shirt and two pairs of shorts. I ate dehydrated dinners, almonds, cashews, dried apricots, Starbucks shots, PB&J sandwiches and Clif Bars. I carried a plastic lightweight cup and spoon. That’s it. I survived. 

After awhile, I met my roommates. They were a pleasant family unit consisting of a married couple and one brother. I decided not be an interloper. I grabbed a thick mattress and slept outside and in the dining room area for the next three nights. The first outside sleep, I woke to a wallaby staring up at me. I’m pretty sure she winked. The second night outside, I was run over by an opossum. I moved indoors after that. 

By the second night, a few family units invited me to join them for dinner. The conversations were cordial and friendly. Eventually I thanked all for their kindness and let them be.

Each morning I headed off early.  I wanted the solitude. I had  hoped to see wildlife too. That didn’t work. I saw two poisonous snakes, one shy wallaby and a few flittering birds. I scored my quiet time though. 

Ahh! But the ocean side views were amazing. Even a curmudgeon like myself appreciated them. See for yourself. 

I’ll say this about the Three Cape Walk. I loved it. I would enjoy going back again with a potential First Lady. I would just politely ask her to leave her cell phone behind. For that favor, I’d carry in salmon,  fresh veggies and two plates. I’d put the bottle of wine in a plastic container too. 

Seriously, it’s well worth the Aussie or US bucks.

From Hobart, 

Cheers,

Jeff